My Tips for Moisturizing & Moisture Retention

The information I'm going to share will be based on porosity. Feel free to scroll to the part that pertains to you but the information is good to know either way. If you are unsure what your porosity is here is a quick how to on testing for porosity:

STEP 1: Get a bowl. Fill with room temp water.
STEP 2: Place clean, dry shed hair into bowl. (I suggest hair from the shower or sink that has shed during your wash routine NOT pull hairs from you head)
STEP 3: Watch how hair reacts to the water. (Watching over time will increase accuracy) Does it float? Low porosity! Does it sink? High porosity! Hang out in the middle? Normal porosity!

Moisturizing Your Low Porosity Hair

If your hair floated welcome to the low po team! Your hair absorb little to no moisture, yay! (Sarcasm) The key to moisturizing low po hair is opening those cuticles for moisture to absorb better. How do you do this? Use substances with a higher pH or that are known to lift those cuticle layers. So what can you use?

*Warm water
*Baking Soda
*Vegetable Glycerin
*Black Coffee (Yes I said Coffee)

How can they be used?
Wash your in warm water or put warm water in your spray bottle.
You can add baking soda to you deep conditioner.
Vegetable glycerin (a humectant that attracts moisture form the atmosphere) can be put in your spray bottle, added to Deep Conditioner and other mixes.
Black Coffee can be used as a final rinse or rinsed through the hair prior to Deep conditioning.

Now that you've opened the cuticle moisturize with a water based product. This can include leave in sprays, leave in creams, spray moisturizers/creams and those lovely home made concoctions! I believe the LCO method works the best for low porosity hair. I have used water as my L(iquid) in this example. Leave in as the C(ream) which I suggest be creamy with slip, and now O(il)! The Oil you use will be based on the thickness or thinness of your strands. Thin strands will be weighed down by oils like castor oil and possibly EVOO so you might prefer grapseed, coconut, or jojoba oils. Thicker strands will be able to withstand EVOO or castor oil however castor oil is SUPER thick. In winter months I suggest sealing with a butter. I do LOCB or LCOB. Either one work well.

Be generous when moisturizing! Its better to have excess than to starve your hair!

Moisturizing Your High Porosity Hair

So your hair is highly porous! Not a problem. Time to go to work! You have the hardest time retaining moisture. Your hair cuticles aren't closing well enough to lock in moisture and that stuff is just evaporating right out! So what will help close those cuticles? Substances with a lower pH than your hair! Like:

*Lemon Juice
*Aloe Vera juice/gel
*ACV

All of these can be added to your spray bottle, rinsed through your hair as a final rinse, and added to Deep conditioners and other homemade recipes.

Both Porosity Types can...

Moisturize using the LOC or LCO methods! We can all also use the substances that aid in closing the cuticle. I know many say closing the cuticle won't help low po hair BUT if you're opening your cuticle well enough you'll need to close that sucker back up..LOL. You're cuticle will not lock down like the Pentagon under attack and stop moisture from coming in after using a substance with lower pH. They aid in eliminating tangles because the cuticles aren't getting caught up on each other as they are now laying flatter. They also assist in achieveing shinier and healthier lookin hair. Say goodbye to that dry, dull look and feel.

Final Words...

Deep Condition weekly.

If need be to correct dryness co wash with a co wash product or conditioner that doesn't have silicones. (Dimethicone, amodinethicone etc.) Silicones cause build up when not washed or shampooed out with a sulfate shampoo. (And we don't want those sulfates!)

Sulfate free shampoo monthly while correcting dryness is okay. Find one that your hair likes!

Pay attention to your entire hair strand. Root to ends! Many times we neglect those ends.

Clip those ends (as needed!) when they're raggedy and just won't stay moisturized to keep the rest of your hair healthy.

DRINK WATER!!! Become a fish if you have to..LOL!

That's all for now.

Thanks for Reading!

5 Reasons Why Your Hair is Dry

Oh dryness! This has ALWAYS been my biggest problem with my hair. Here are my top 5 Reasons why your hair might be dry!

1. You Don't Know Your Porosity.

Porosity is so very very important when it comes to battling dryness. Porosity in a nut shell is your hair's ability to absorb and retain moisture. There must be a balance between low porosity (little to no absorption) and high porosity (absorption with little to no retention). Porosity issues can be fixed once porosity is identified.

2. You Only Use Stylers/Puddings

Many people get so focused on definition, the don't realize if they moisturized properly they'd get definition without the use of gel, stylers and puddings. Moisturizing properly and controlling porosity eliminates frizz and the need to "tame". If you're not using conditioners or water based moisturizers to first moisturize THEN a styling product and only using a styling product your hair might be experiencing dryness.

3. You Wash Your Hair in Hot Water

Washing our hair in hot water can have adverse affects over time. It can open the hair cuticle making the hair more and more porous causing dry, dull, frizzy hair and more and more frustration. Warm washes and cold rinses help to first remove dirt and excess oils then seal and close the cuticles when a wash is complete.

4. You Don't Seal/Well Enough

Sealing in moisture is essential. Two of the best oils to seal with on dry hair are EVOO (extra virgin olive oil) and castor oil, especially during the winter months. If you're not sealing, the moisture is evaporating and drying right out of your hair! Now on the other hand you may be sealing but not well enough. Like running your hands through your head with a dime size of oil on your hands KNOWING you no longer have a twa! Lol. Section by section is the way to go, Sis!

5. Product Build Up

We all love cowashing but product build up is a mother! And cowashing cannot cleanse your hair of gunk!!!!! Though it is great on a weekly basis or daily depending on your needs, try to shampoo at least once a month to keep product build up to a minimum. Product build up can cause the hair to become weighed down, suffocated and dry. Not a a good look! Remember a good sulfate free gentle shampoo won't hurt!

Thanks for reading!

*Upcoming post: How To Test for Porosity*

Big Chop Tips: Do Your Research!

The Big Chop is a BIG step. I mean we don't go around chopping our hair off everyday! Though I'm the first one in a room to say it's just hair, I'll also be the first one to say, DO YOUR RESEARCH!! You're going from one hair life to another. You need to get yourself informed for the road ahead or else post BC will be a time of separation anxiety and depression (YES it happens). Allow YouTube to be your Oracle! Join natural hair groups, forums, online communities etc. When you know, you're hair will grow!

Big Chop Tips: Use Shears!

Regular scissors are too dull to cut hair efficiently! Use shears.

5 Tips for Summer Hair Care

Though this summer hasn't been super hot, the sun is still hanging, we're still sweating and our hair still needs care so here are 5 of my tips for caring for your hair during the summer months!

1. Keep your hair and scalp clean.
The heat can cause you to sweat more and increase itchiness as well as build up. You might consider cleansing (co wash or shampoo) more frequently if you have the time. If not stay tuned there's a tip for you!

2. Moisture Baby!
Although winter air is drier you ALWAYS need moisture for your natural and during the summer months it's a matter of switching up your routine to moisturize for Sumner conditions. So maybe you'll use a lighter moisturizer and a lighter oil to keep from having hair that's weighed down but make sure to deep condition and listen to your strands!

3. Protective Styling anyone?
For those who want their hair away during the summer months, here's a top for you! Be sure to pick a style that can be maintained easily, gives you ability to moisturize your hair and cleanse your scalp! Also look out for those edges, making sure they're not being pulled or stressed.

4. Going Swimming?
If you're hair isn't in a protective style and you want to swim here's a thought. Twist your hair with conditioner or an oil like EVOO to create a barrier of protection against the effects of the chlorine. Chlorine is a chemical and can cause dryness. Protect those strands!

5. Use that Shea Butter!
Shea Butter is a natural sunscreen and can aid in protecting your skin and hair from the sun. Especially for those who have color treated hair, try that Shea butter! I'd suggest using it in a melted state so you don't weigh down your hair and can keep your styles light and free.

Thanks for Reading!

7 Tips for Length Retention

Happy Monday Curlfriends!!

Over the weekend I decided to do a random length check because I felt my hair was a bit longer than it was when I checked it in the beginning of last month and it turns out I was right! The pic from this month isn't level to the pic from last month so the difference isn't as great as it seems but by the placement of my finger, you can see it's lower on my nose. =D I haven't taken any growth supplements or vitamins yet (I plan to start in June) and my hair is still flourishing at it's own pace! So here's some tips that I've found helpful in keeping my hair healthy and retaining length!

1. Utilize Protective Styling.

From my first BC in 2010 I learned that protective styling was very important to keeping my hair from breaking. It helped me keep my hands out of my hair minimizing stress and friction on my hair strands. It also kept my ends tucked away in most cases, protecting them from being dry and brittle and losing moisture. 

2. Deep Conditioning goes a long way!

When I was relaxed I'd only get a deep condition when I got a touch up or my next relaxer and I loved a good deep condition but now that I'm natural??? I realize it's a pretty good idea to deep condition with every wash! As long as you're balancing with a protein treatment when needed, deep conditioning won't harm but only help to keep hair moisturized, soft and supple. However, if your aren't balancing with a protein treatment, your hair will feel gummy from over conditioning which can cause more damage then you intended.

3. Hair is protein, you NEED protein! 

As I said in the last tip you MUST balance between moisture (dep conditioning) and protein! Protein treatments keep your hair strong and help to strengthen the strand's ability to retain moisture therefore keeping the hair soft, moisturized and easier to manage. As with deep conditioning, if you're only doing the one process you'll cause more damage. If you're only using protein conditioners or treatments your hair will become dry, brittle and will easily break.

4. Handle with care.

Being rough when handling your hair is NOT the way to go! You must be gentle at all times. Our hair is naturally fragile and when we handle it roughly we're only making things worse. A good note is checking the condition of your fingernails. Make sure you have not snags, hangnails or chipped nail polish. I've snagged my hair a number of times before I realized my nails were in bad shape for hair handling. 

5. Hot Oil Treatments!

There's nothing like a good hot oil treatment. It helps to lubricate dry, flaky, itchy scalp as well as hair strands. A good hot oil treatment will help minimize friction between hair strands resulting in less knotting and breakage. I try to do one once a month or more (in the winter).

6. Say NO to heat! 

Heat in nature is drying and direct heat in the hair is a strain no matter how much you try to protect the hair. (In my experience) I currently use NO heat in my regimen. After my first BC I straightened my hair every 6 months with little hair damage but I still had to put work in to make my hair feel as it did before applying heat. I'm noticing a no hear regimen us working a lot better for me! 

7. Be Patient. 

I often talk about our mindset toward our hair. It can get frustrating when your hair is shorter than the girl with 3c hair who did her BC 2 months after you did..lol BUT stay patient, have fun and love YOUR hair and YOUR journey through it all. You'll see results and you'll know when you're getting it right for YOU! 

Love you much for reading!! 

Dry Hair, Breakage/Damage & pH

Back with another one!

I trust and pray all is well with all of you naturalistas!! This installment in the Dry Hair series talks about pH and how the products that we use can make or break our hair...literally! 

What is pH?

The term pH stands for potenz hydrogen and translates from Danish as hydrogen strength. A pH level signifies the amount of positive hydrogen cations or negative hydrogen anions a solution contains. 


Acidic Substances and Hair

On a pH scale if the substance has a lower number (0-6.9), it is considered acidic. When hair and skin is healthy its acidic mantle has a pH of 4.5-5.5. What does this mean? Our hair reacts and is healthier in a more acidic state and substances that are around the pH or slightly more acidic than healthy hair tend to constrict and close the cuticle for increased shine and decreased porosity! So what are some examples? Aloe Vera & Hair Conditioners (4), Apple Cider Vinegar (3), Lemon Juice (2). Now these numbers are about an average, the only way to know if you're products or substances have a suitable pH is to test them with pH strips. Take a small amount and dip the pH strip into the substance the color of the pH strip after contact with the substance can be compared to the chart on the pH strip container and will tell you the pH level of that substance.


Basic Substances and Hair

On a pH scale if the substance has a higher number (7.1-14), it is considered basic or alkaline. High pH can have adverse effects on hair cuticles causing the scales to lift and the hair to swell an open. An example of this effect is the interaction between water and hair. Water although neutral is still more basic than hair (about 100 times more at a pH of 7). As a result, the hair cuticle scales slightly lift. Other examples of alkaline or basic substances include relaxers and permanent hair colors ranging from 10-13 on the pH scale! The key to avoiding breakage, dull/dry hair, the inability to hold moisture/highly porous hair is returning the hair to its normal pH range or normalizing to close or tighten the cuticles. If the cuticles are not closed or tightened breakage, damage, tangles and unnecessary headaches are inevitable. 


For more understanding...

Looking at the scale the ranges are logarithmic and therefore though it looks like an increase from 4 to 5 is an increase of one, it is not, instead it is and increase of ten times the strength. (a pH level of 4 is ten times as acidic as a pH level of 5)


The Wrap-Up

It is very important to remember pH as a direct link to porosity. To keep your hair from being overly porous you must tighten the cuticles using higher pH products or substances. This process however should not be done drastically (from a relaxer or permanent color to normal) frequently because of the weathering it can cause. The proper use of pH can change your hair regimen for sure. It can keep porosity well balanced minimizing breakage, increasing manageability, shine and moisture retention. On my rechop journey I hope to work on pH balancing and having correct porosity. Though my plan is NOT to use permanent color in my hair AT ALL, I think if I perfect my regimen using pH balance I might be able to color my hair in the future. Who knows?!

Once again I thank you for reading and all information was found in my NATURAL HAIR BIBLE, The Science of Black Hair by Audrey Davis-Sivasothy. I urge you to check it out. It can be purchased on Amazon or on her website. Click the previous link to visit!

Stay Koily and Kute! ;-)

Dry Hair, Breakage/Damage & Porosity

Hi Lovely Ladies!! 

It's been a minute but I am back on this lovely Thursday with some information from the hair book that changed my thinking towards hair. The information in this post is from the book with some of my own thoughts based on experience with my own hair journey. I hope this information can help you get further with your healthy hair journeys! 


What is Porosity?


"Porosity refers to the hair's ability, or inability, to absorb water o chemicals into the cortex." In Audrey Davis-Sivasothy's guide, The Science of Black Hair, she uses the illustration of a fence and weathering to better explain porosity. Sivasothy states that a new fence can protect one's yard from outside intrusion and disturbances but as the fence gets older and faces destructive elements it becomes open in some places or more porous and that protection is therefore compromised. Our hair grows from the root strong and protected by the cuticle layer, like that new fence, but as we style, handle our hair and our hair strands age those layers "crack, peel and lift away" therefore on one head each strand's porosity increases from root to end.

What is low porosity vs. high porosity?

Low porosity means that the hair strands do not absorb moisture immediately and resist chemical treatments such as relaxers or permanent hair coloring. This hair is considered quite healthy and has not yet been exposed to "cuticle-degrading treatments". With low porosity hair the cuticles of the strand(s) are tightly closed therefore protecting the cortex or center-most part of the strand. 

Hair with higher porosity can absorb moisture a lot faster than hair with lower porosity. The cuticles easily lift to absorb that moisture but if the porosity of the hair is too high those cuticles will remain open, losing that moisture just as fast. Therefore hair that is super porous can be wet over and over again and not retain that moisture leaving the hair (once dried) hard, brittle and dry. 

How does this information relate to Breakage/Damage?

On your head the part of your hair that would have the lowest porosity would be the hair freshly grown out of your scalp while the hair with the highest porosity would be your ends due to your ends being the oldest part of your hair. Many of us fight with dry brittle ends while the rest of out hair can retain moisture amazingly. Those dry, porous ends can make or break the health or our hair. This is why trimming/dusting our ends is so important. These dry, old ends can cause splits all the way up our hair shaft and definitely  keep us from reaching our length goals.

The Wrap-up

For overall hair health where should your hair land on the porosity scale? Ideally we would want our hair to be at a happy medium between the two extremes. You want your hair to be able o absorb moisture well while having enough cuticle tightness to maintain that moisture leaving hair healthy, moisturized and giving us better manageability!

Did I miss anything? Have any questions? Leave a Comment!!!

Thanks for reading,

KoilyKute



UP NEXT: Dry Hair, Breakage/Damage & pH

Why I LOVE Olive Oil as a sealant...

Olive oil has been the one oil that I started using from the beginning (2010). Before I even knew what  a sealant really was, I decided that olive oil would be the first one I tried. I used olive oil for the first chapter of my hair journey figuring out how to seal in moisture, what the benefits of olive oil are, and how I could incorporate it into my journey for MY hair.

What is a sealant?
A sealant in natural hair terms can be an oil or butter that allows moisture to be sealed or absorbed into the hair strands without being lost as the hair dries completely. For 4C hair, in my experience, a sealant should be applied as the last step in the moisturizing process. Sealants are very important for our hair being that in most cases our hair has low porosity and as a result struggles to retain moisture. Once we find a great moisturizer we need a sealant that'll "lock it up" and keep that moisture right where we want it!

What are the benefits of olive oil?
The following information can be found on www.newhealthguide.org.

1. Prevent DTH Hormones Production. A hormone called DTH is the culprit in many cases of hair loss, as it causes the hair follicle shaft to narrow. Olive oil actually stops this from happening, which means you can hold onto your hair for longer.
2. Promote Scalp Health. Olive oil is loaded with antioxidants, which can keep the skin of your scalp in better shape. It can even reduce the damage done by hair care products or overuse of styling products.
3. Naturally Condition the Hair. Olive oil can make your hair shiny and soft. That's why it has been used for centuries as a natural hair conditioner.
4. Fight off Fungi and Bacteria. Dandruff, head lice and other adverse conditions can contribute to hair loss. Fortunately, olive oil fights off all of these things, helping keep your hair healthier.
5. Improve Blood Circulation. Olive oil massages can improve the blood circulation in your scalp. This increased blood flow can stimulate the follicles, which then produce thicker strands.

Why Do I LOVE Olive Oil?

I have used Olive Oil as a sealant, in my deep conditioner mixes, in my pre poo, in my spray bottle...yes, just about everything! For MY hair specifically I've gone without olive oil and I have noticed the difference! My hair is so much softer, shinier and moisturized when I seal with olive oil. It is a staple that I will NEVER stray from again. You just gotta love when the simple things WORK, right? 

What kind of Olive Oil do I purchase?

I have no brand preference really but it has to be Extra Virgin Olive Oil and if it's USDA Organic, that makes it even better.

The Wrap-Up

Olive Oil is a MUST Ladies!! The benefits that can come from the use of EVOO are endless. If you haven't tried Olive Oil in your journey, what the heck are you waiting for, Lady? Hop on that! LOL.

As always remember to enjoy your hair and your journey! 

Stay Koily and Kute ;-)

Hellooooo 2014: 3 tips for enjoying your journey in 2014

Wow!! The new year seems like it crept up on us! (At least in my opinion) Of course every one is making resolutions in every aspect of their life. Eat healthier, workout more, pray more, cut out this, cut out that but what are we saying as far as our hair goes? Did you think about your progress in 2013 and what you can do better this year? Natural hair (especially type 4) is a commitment as with anything else you take seriously in life. Like I have said before my second big chop was my new start or new beginning and it doesn't take a new year to change habits or improve. Here are a few tips for 2014!

1. Create a list of REALISTIC hair goals!

It is very important to know and keep in sight what you want to achieve as far as length, health etc. These goals may be short term or long term but you always want something to help you stay on target. (Especially if you're a new natural) Also very important, is making those goals realistic for YOUR hair which is why it is very important to know and get to know your hair.

2. Don't be afraid to bend your own rules! (Within reason)

I personally learned this lesson a little less than a month ago. Sometimes we get very strict on ourselves during our journey especially when it comes to the products we use. Like wanting to use ALL NATURAL products. For the most part I have tried to do that but I have realized (for myself) it is more important to make sure certain ingredients aren't in my products rather than they be completely natural in composition. So it's okay to bend the rules in this case. However, (speaking to my Koily Ladies) in cases like your DC or wash day routines or detangling methods? If it's working for you, don't cute those corners, Boo!

3. Explore with caution but HAVE FUN!

I believe even the most complacent naturalista will explore new methods, ideas, concepts and of course PRODUCTS a little. There's so much out there and ultimately our goal is to improve the health of our hair, isn't it? So without a doubt you're going to explore, research and experience trial and error. The most important thing to remember is to have fun with it! Don't stress this year and don't gauge your progress with the progress of others. Run your own race and love that hair of yours! And especially to my Koily Sistas, if you learn o love your OWN texture, society will too! Remember that!

That's all for now my loves! Let's enjoy our hair this year!

The Woes of an Itchy scalp

So I have ALWAYS had a dry itchy scalp. From my relaxed days and even throughout my natural hair journey after the first big chop. It's not til the end of my part 1 journey, prior to my second big chop that I experienced a complete change.

What helped?

I DO NOT use shampoo on a regular basis. Whether it be sulfate or sulfate free, I don't use it! I strictly co-wash on a weekly basis. I'll use a clarifying shampoo  MAYBE once in a two month period to keep my scalp healthy & free of build up. Overall I attribute my scalp success to that one habit. A virtually shampooless cleansing routine! 

That's what's helped me, hope it helps you! 

Happy Healthy Hair Journeys Ladies!!! 

The LOC method verses the LCO method

What are they?

LOC stands for liquid, oil, cream and LCO is simply in a different order, liquid, cream, oil. Both methods are used as a layering system to lock in moisture in various hair types. In most cases naturals define L as water, O as some kind of oil and C as a water based cream or conditioner. I have seen some naturals say the L-liquid is simply water while others apply another liquid to damp hair, either cold aloe vera juice or lemongrass. In this case I'd say neither is wrong or right as different strokes for different folks! 

My Thoughts/Experience

I have tried both the LOC and LCO methods on long and short natural hair and my 4b/4c hair reacts best to the LCO method. Usually when I do so I use a sealing oil that seals more than it penetrates unlike coconut oil which can moisturize due to it's penetrating properties. I have also used cold aloe vera juice as my L-liquid on damp hair. This step constricts the hair cuticles allowing my very dry hair to retain moisture for a shinier, softer finish for every style verses lifeless, dull tresses.

The Wrap-up

All in all these methods work! It's just about finding your perfect fit! Trial and error are the only ways we learn our hair after all.

Okay ladies,

Stay Koily and Kute!