My Staple Products List: March 2014

Hey Lovelies!! 

So to a lot of us naturals feel our products are EVERYTHING and honestly half the fun is trial and error. This is a list of products I currently love and have used for some time. I'll try not to make this a long read with a bunch of pros and cons so please if there is a specific product you'd like reviewed further or questions you have please email me. 

Cleansers

As I Am Coconut Cowash (around $8) - weekly cowash

Before my rechop I tried this product and I absolutely love it! The smell is amazing, it looks and feels creamy and rich and cleanses while moisturizing! The only negative thing I can say is that it needs a pump or change of packaging (to a squeeze bottle) to make cleansing easier. You can find the As I Am collection at some Walgreens, some Targets and some Walmarts. It all depends on the demographic unfortunately. There's always online purchase!







Elucence Volume Clarifying Shampoo* - once in a while to wash away product build up

This product was a shot in the dark for me. It was listed in The Science of Natural Hair book I talk about so much as a good clarifying shampoo. My choice came down to this and the Carol's Daughter. Ultimately I decided to purchase the Elucence because I had heard that the Carol's Daughter leaves hair too stripped and dry. I can't say so myself though since I haven't tried it. But as for THIS shampoo I have no negative comments. It lathers very well, cleans to a squeaky clean without over stripping and smells pretty good. It is also sulfate free from what I see on the label..lol though it doesn't advertise as a sulfate free shampoo (not sure why).





Leave-in Conditioner

Kinky Curly Knot Today (around $12) - my absolute FAVE leave-in

What can I say? What can I say? This stuff is heaven in a bottle!!! When doing the LOC or LCO or LOCS method (lol) this is my C! This leave-in is all natural and does wonders for all the hair types on my head (3c-4c). It keeps my cuticles smooth and hair feeling soft and happy. All I can say is this leave-in is a blessing. I personally might start buying in bulk from amazon, yep that's how much I love it!








All Purpose Conditioners (Natural on a budget)

Suave Professionals Shea + Almond Butter (around $3) 

This is my go to conditioner for a deep condition at the moment. I mix it with olive or castor oil for added moisture and shine. It smells great, makes my hair feel awesome and its affordable. But don't just stop there! You can use this conditioner as a co wash also! No complaints although it has dimethicone which I do try to stay away from but when you're on a budget it's a great alternative. This product is easily accessible at drugstores, supermarkets etc.

Suave Naturals Tropical Coconut (around $2) 

This creamy conditioner is GREAT for co-washing! I love the coconut scent, the creamy consistency and the slip. My only warning would be to those who are protein sensitive, this conditioner does have proteins in it.

Vo5 conditioners (under $1) 

Work great for co-washing as well. I absolutely love Vo5 conditioners for their simple ingredients, cheap prices, and quality! They smell yummy, have good consistency, slip and are great when finger detangling. I still use these from time to time when I want to cut back and save. I can get 8 of these for around the price of the As I Am Coconut Cowash. Sounds like a save to me!







Protein Treatment/Conditioner

Elucence Extended Moisture Repair Treatment* - used once in a while (every 2 months)

This treatment is awesome! It doesn't have slip however so if you're looking for a creamy protein conditioner this is not it. As for my process in using this, I mix it with a little olive or castor oil and sit with my heat therapy wrap for about 15 minutes. Immediately after, I deep condition.


Note: A few months ago I mentioned the Elasta QP Soy Oyl protein + moisture conditioner that I loved. I've stopped using that product due to the mineral oil in it. Mineral oil is one of the first three ingredients of the product and is a byproduct of gasoline! (google it) So that's why that lovely tub got two uses and will not be used again.







All Purpose Butter

Jane Carter Nourish & Shine ($22)

I recently started using this product and OMG it's already a must have for me. Looking at the price you might be saying, "No ma'am!" but this product is worth it and a little goes a long way! It's a mix of butters and vitamins. It works great and a sealant during these winter months and has changed my LOC method to LOC(B)utter! I use it for my mini twists, flat twists, braids, just about every style. The smell reminds me of sunshine. Like if sunshine could have a scent this would be it! Lol. It's a refreshing, wake me up citrus that makes my hair smell lovely!!! One of the great things about this product is it says you can use it on your skin as well and being the curious person I am, I have been using it on my belly to keep my skin moisturized. No complaints there either. I even use it on my son's hair! Overall, the product does what it says, nourish and shine. If you're one who doesn't care to find 100% unrefined Shea Butter or doesn't like to mix your own butters, this product is definitely for you!



*Note: My Elucence products were ordered online at CurlMart.com. I do not recall what I paid for them at the time of purchase but they are currently $6 for the shampoo and $16 for the repair/protein treatment. The As I Am, Kinky Curly Knot Today and Jane Carter products can also be purchase on the CurlMart website.

All opinions in this post are all my own. They are not coerced or sponsored by any company.

Dry Hair, Breakage/Damage & pH

Back with another one!

I trust and pray all is well with all of you naturalistas!! This installment in the Dry Hair series talks about pH and how the products that we use can make or break our hair...literally! 

What is pH?

The term pH stands for potenz hydrogen and translates from Danish as hydrogen strength. A pH level signifies the amount of positive hydrogen cations or negative hydrogen anions a solution contains. 


Acidic Substances and Hair

On a pH scale if the substance has a lower number (0-6.9), it is considered acidic. When hair and skin is healthy its acidic mantle has a pH of 4.5-5.5. What does this mean? Our hair reacts and is healthier in a more acidic state and substances that are around the pH or slightly more acidic than healthy hair tend to constrict and close the cuticle for increased shine and decreased porosity! So what are some examples? Aloe Vera & Hair Conditioners (4), Apple Cider Vinegar (3), Lemon Juice (2). Now these numbers are about an average, the only way to know if you're products or substances have a suitable pH is to test them with pH strips. Take a small amount and dip the pH strip into the substance the color of the pH strip after contact with the substance can be compared to the chart on the pH strip container and will tell you the pH level of that substance.


Basic Substances and Hair

On a pH scale if the substance has a higher number (7.1-14), it is considered basic or alkaline. High pH can have adverse effects on hair cuticles causing the scales to lift and the hair to swell an open. An example of this effect is the interaction between water and hair. Water although neutral is still more basic than hair (about 100 times more at a pH of 7). As a result, the hair cuticle scales slightly lift. Other examples of alkaline or basic substances include relaxers and permanent hair colors ranging from 10-13 on the pH scale! The key to avoiding breakage, dull/dry hair, the inability to hold moisture/highly porous hair is returning the hair to its normal pH range or normalizing to close or tighten the cuticles. If the cuticles are not closed or tightened breakage, damage, tangles and unnecessary headaches are inevitable. 


For more understanding...

Looking at the scale the ranges are logarithmic and therefore though it looks like an increase from 4 to 5 is an increase of one, it is not, instead it is and increase of ten times the strength. (a pH level of 4 is ten times as acidic as a pH level of 5)


The Wrap-Up

It is very important to remember pH as a direct link to porosity. To keep your hair from being overly porous you must tighten the cuticles using higher pH products or substances. This process however should not be done drastically (from a relaxer or permanent color to normal) frequently because of the weathering it can cause. The proper use of pH can change your hair regimen for sure. It can keep porosity well balanced minimizing breakage, increasing manageability, shine and moisture retention. On my rechop journey I hope to work on pH balancing and having correct porosity. Though my plan is NOT to use permanent color in my hair AT ALL, I think if I perfect my regimen using pH balance I might be able to color my hair in the future. Who knows?!

Once again I thank you for reading and all information was found in my NATURAL HAIR BIBLE, The Science of Black Hair by Audrey Davis-Sivasothy. I urge you to check it out. It can be purchased on Amazon or on her website. Click the previous link to visit!

Stay Koily and Kute! ;-)

My Pregnancy and My Natural Hair: Box Braids Rundown

Hey Curlies!

So as I stated in my last post I set my hair for the last weeks of my pregnancy. My protective style of choice was large box braids which I installed over 4 days. I took my time to make sure I didn't exhaust myself which I am very glad I did. 

How many packs of hair did I use?

I used 10 packs of 100% Kanekalon Jumbo Braid Hair. Unfortunately I had to use two different brands which were also two different lengths (Outre & MotownTress). Hair still looks nice and full though so I won't complain..lol

How did I prep my hair?

I washed and deep conditioned my hair prior to installation. With the deep conditioner in my hair, I detangled. Once rinsed I did my newest combo for locking in moisture LOCB (Liquid. Oil. Cream. Butter.), the butter I've been using is the Jane Carter Solutions Nourish and Shine which I have to say has been working great for my hair in these winter months. (But back to hair prep) After moisturizing I used a blow dry my hair slightly (on the lowest setting) to get my roots dry. Being that my hair is a tight twa with lots of density I can section or try to section as much as I want but I simply clip the hair out of the way of the part that I am immediately working with and proceed.

The Process

Whenever I do a braided, twisted, or yarn wrapped protective style I do a "halo" which means I do the perimeter of my head first to ensure that if I need to I can pull the style up into a ponytail or bun and go out of the house without looking absolutely crazy..lol This is why I started with my edges. I also experimented with my installation process so no I won't give a detailed explanation or tutorial on how to do this style being that I'm still in trial and error mode! 

Being 8 months pregnant I HAD to take my time in doing this style. I get tired very easily and I know when I shouldn't try t be super woman! Though when I'm not pregnant I'd probably do this style on a weekend with nothing to do and complete in two days (not two full days)..lol

This time around however, I completed my hair over 4 days. Making sure to take my time, get my groove since I haven't braided in awhile, and focus on neatness. Once braiding was complete, I used cold wave rods to curl the ends and dipped the ends in hot water (the hotter the better!) for a minute or two. 

Maintenance

I've read on other blogs, websites and heard on YouTube that you should soak your extension hair in 50/50 water and acv (apple cider vinegar) to get rid of the alkaline coating that causes itching. I myself did not do that. Instead, after installing my box braids I did a 50/50 water and acv rinse on my scalp and about an inch down the braids. 

I'm keeping my upkeep very simple. I have water and glycerin in a spray bottle to moisturize with minimal build up and grape seed oil to keep my hair/scalp soft and itch-free. At night I bun the hair up and  tie a satin scarf around my edges.

Problems I Experienced

So like I said I'm still figuring things out when it comes to doing my own hair and though I KNOW I have weak fragile edges it seems I did not notice how tightly I braided. =(   As a result I've experienced some pulling and soreness (no bueno). I have been oiling my edges (grape seed and JBCO*) and limiting the manipulation of my braids to decrease the pulling. Hopefully I don't experience breakage! AHHHHHH!!!

 Supplies (That I may or may not have mentioned)

• 10 packs of hair ( I used 100% Kanekalon Jumbo Braid Hair)
• ACV
• Spray Bottle
• Glycerin
• Grape Seed Oil (or some other light oil for the scalp like jojoba)
• Cold wave rods
• Clips
• Water!!
• PATIENCE!!!

*JBCO - Jamaican Black Castor Oil

The Wrap-up

As always thank you so much for reading and I hope this info and my mistakes (lol) can help you! I plan to keep these braids in right through labor but I never make promises when it comes to protective styles. I'm usually a two week kind of girl! My thoughts are as long as I keep a clean itch-free scalp and clean moisturized hair I should be alright! 

Stay Koily and Kute ;-)

My Pregnancy and My Natural Hair: Third Trimester

Hey Curlfriends!

So this post is to update you on my hair in this my third trimester of pregnancy. I'm going to explain my experiences (that I remember) from my first pregnancy and what I am currently experiencing. I hope this helps for all my new preggos with natural type 4 hair or ladies who are TTC (trying to conceive) and want to know what may happen to their hair.


Shedding Update!

In my previous post on postpartum shedding I mentioned my methods for battling the loss of large amounts of hair. To briefly recap, I do black tea rinses which limit the shedding to a minimum. Now that I am at 31 weeks pregnant I am noticing this time my shedding is not postpartum rather before my little girl even arrives. For the first two trimesters I noticed great hair growth but very little to no shedding and now that I am at the end of my pregnancy I notice that my hair is already starting to shed =(. You can imagine my sadness..lol but I have decided to actively tea rinse once my little bit is born. (still sad though)


Protective Styling

Wigs and braids boo! Lol. I love flat twisting my hair and slappin a cute wig on my head. I'll do that in a minute, pregnant or not! But recently I've done so to save time and stress. However, my next style is large "poetic justice" braids that I'll keep in through birth that way my hair is put away, neat and presentable at all times. To reflect on my last pregnancy I should have done this but I was like a blind bat when it came to a birth plan for my hair let alone a birth plan for going into labor! My doctor had planned to induce me on October 7, 2011 but my son had other plans. I started contracting a bit mid day on the 4th (I had no clue) and was in active labor dilated about 3-4 cm on the 5th around 2am. To make an already long story short, my hair was a matted mess during labor and delivery and I didn't get a chance to do it til a few days later. I vowed that will NOT happen to ME again, honey! 

The Wrap-up/ My advice

So ladies I am getting closer and closer to seeing my baby girl, Mikaela and I hope to share a lot of these final weeks with you! I will give more updates on shedding and the condition of my hair before and after birth so stay tuned! And for those ladies who are in the beginning of their pregnancies or TTC I hope this info helps you and don't be afraid to drop a comment with any questions. My biggest word of advice is to have a birth plan for that hair!! You don't want to be a matted mess...lol! As always I thank you for reading and wish you happy healthy hair journeys! 

Stay Koily and Kute ;-)